Old Town’s Harney Sushi, naturally located on Harney Street, is not for the claustrophobic. Every available space in its small interior is literally crammed with chairs, tiny tables, and stools, all of which are usually seated with boisterous sake-bombers. The restaurant’s bright red and black lighting, vocal crowd and clublike atmosphere make it seem even smaller.

But if you can handle the heat, Harney’s got lots to offer the party-minded sushi connoisseur. The chefs’ selection of signature rolls is as fun to read as it is to taste. The Hippie Roll, with tempura sweet potato, avocado, shitake mushrooms and crunchies, is a vegetarian’s delight. The remarkable Thai Tiger Roll is filled with sprouts, yama gobo, and snapper, and then topped with raw salmon and seared. Others worth mentioning would make a long list, and unfortunately, an expensive one.

The restaurant doesn’t have a full bar, but offers a good variety of cold sakes, beers, and cocktails mixed with Han Korean vodka. Both the Strawberry Lemondrop and the “Sojito” (a Han mojito with lemonade) are delicious.